Monday, July 13

11:00 p.m.

Had a long drive today. It’s about a two-hour drive to Killkenny. But the scenery along the way was (as typical) beautiful.

Today we visited Killkenny Castle, which dates back to the 12th century and has been occupied, at various times, by Irish and English kings. It was very impressive. Though the structure itself had been redone several times, most of the interior has remained as it was in the 17th or 18th century. What carpeting and wall coverings could not be retained were painstakingly replicated.

The beds, however, were much shorter than is normal today. And the doorways were not much higher than six feet either, if that high. More interestingly, the toilets were nearly twice as big as our modern "johns" – rear-end-space wise, that is. Anyone smaller than William "The Refrigerator" Perry would simply fall in – even with the seat down.

So, from the size of the beds, the doors, and the toilets, we surmised that early Irish royalty must have been very short, very rotund people. Either that or they found some peculiar pleasure in sore heads and soggy bottoms.

One thing is becoming apparent – the nations of the world should stick to their own culinary territories. We had two meals today that drove this home:

[WARNING: The following is meant as a purely whimsical, good-natured observation and is not meant to offend any Irish persons who may read this one day (okay, Brian?). Any resemblance between these statements and truly professional assessments of food quality is patently impossible. And those who witnessed my two-fisted feasting will certainly know to take these comments with a grain of salt – and vinegar, please.]

In Killkenny we stopped at a pub called (honest) Paris, Texas.



As they had a poster from the movie "Paris, Texas" hanging on a wall, one assumes that movie had something to do with the name being what it was. At any rate, I am certain they did not name this place for the town where their chefs trained, wherever that may have been.

Don’t get me wrong – the food was good. But to advertise it in the menu as "Tex-Mex" was, I think, a bit of a stretch. (To be fair, I’m told Bennigan’s is about as Irish as Henry Kissinger, so perhaps we’re even on that score).

Then dinner was at the New York Pizza Department ("NYPD", get it?) in Tremore. This was pizza in as much as it was round and had a tomato-ish paste and some meat and cheese. Again, it was good – but hardly "New York" style.

We’re spending the night in Tremore, which is located on the south of Ireland on the Atlantic shore. It sits right at the top of a huge bay overlooking the ocean. Just gorgeous.

We’re at a wonderful B&B called Ocean View House. It’s just a few hundred yards from the ocean. Deb’s church has retreats here annually during the October "Bank Holiday." Most businesses here are closed for the bank holidays, unlike America, where the banks don’t get their own holidays, so they close for every other known holiday, including "National Paper Cut Awareness Day."

After breakfast here Tuesday, we’ll go back north about 10 miles to Waterford to visit the famed crystal factory and some other shops. Then it’s back to Bray in the evening.

8:35 a.m.

After a hearty Irish breakfast at Ocean View (any Texan would be proud to cook breakfast as good as this), we headed back north to Waterford.

This is a wonderful village on the River Suir, which joins with two other rivers before pouring into the Atlantic (together, they are known as the "Three Sisters").

The Reader’s Digest book about Ireland (which Debbie gave us prior to our trip) had an interesting story about Waterford:

It seems that, when the Normans were planning to invade Ireland, under the leadership of Strongbow, Waterford was a strategic location that had to be taken. To the west of the outlet of the "Three Sisters" (and north of Tremore) is a town called Crooke, and to the east is a peninsula called Hook Head. Strongbow coined a phrase we repeat even today when he vowed to take Waterford "by Hook or by Crooke."

We shopped at a mall in Waterford and, after lunch, visited some shops along the main streets. Then we toured the Waterford Crystal factory. Even those who think they know something of crystal works would come away in awe of the work and craftsmanship here. The guided tour is a must.

We learned that the cutters may work for eight years before they attain the level of "master craftsman" in certain types of cuts (wedge and flat cuts are the two main cuts). All told, there are about 2,000 cuts involved in the variety of pieces Waterford makes. And the cutters must memorize each one!

To graduate to the title of "Cutter," a student is given a dish (about five inches deep and 10 or 12 inches in diameter) on which he must complete 10 of the most difficult cuts. He is given three attempts – the least flaw means the bowl is smashed and he must start again. Three smashes and he fails the piece.

We’re told no one has ever failed the piece – a testament to the rigors of their training. We were also told that the "apprentice bowl" (as it’s called) takes about 17 hours to complete. The finished piece is given to the student as a diploma. They also sell these bowls to the public, for about £200 (roughly $300).

The drive back from Waterford is a long way, though not as long as from Tipperary, I understand. (I could not resist asking my brother-in-law, Brian, just how far is it to Tipperary, and he dutifully answered, "a long, long way." The Irish, I’m finding out, are nothing if not patient - and, considering the family he’s married into, he’ll have to be). Anyway, the scenery was, again, breathtaking.3

After a ferry ride across the Suir, from Passage East to Ballyhack, we drove up through Enniscorthy. Much of the first half of the drive afforded a view of the Blackstairs Mountains to the West. Closer to County Wicklow (and Bray) we nearly had a cliff’s-eye view of the Irish Sea to the East.

Today we will climb Bray Head.

11:25 p.m.

… and climb Bray head we did. But first…

Brian picked us up after 10 a.m. and, after getting the rest of the crew at their place, we went to shop and mail some cards in Bray. I even made an unscheduled trip to the camera store after my camera spilled on to the cobblestone sidewalk. The new filter cost £7.50 – it could have been much worse.

We got lunch at Dixon’s (a deli downtown) which was fantastic – then Brian and I, along with Nathan, Kyle, Alyson, Derek and Brian’s mom, Marie, set out for the hike up Bray Head.

From far away, Bray Head does not look as daunting as it is. Parts of the slope seemed to be nearly 45-degrees. But, the climb took only about 15 or 20 minutes, and it was worth every step.

Despite a distant haze, all of Bray and some of Dublin and Howth’s Head were visible as clear as could be. Half way up Bray, we could see all the land from the Great Sugar Loaf to Howth’s Head. At the top, of course, we could see that and all the Irish Sea coast to the east. Brian tells me that, on an especially clear day, you may catch a glimpse of Wales on the other side.

By the time we reached the top, I’d worked up a bit of a sweat – but no more than I do in Texas just walking outside to check the mail.

I saw in the European edition of the USA Today (somewhat of an oxymoron there, huh?) that Texas has now had 21 straight days of 100-plus-degree temperatures (Dallas, anyway), and has instituted fines of up to $1,000 for watering violations. (When do we go home again? I’m not sure I know where I put the tickets).

Tomorrow I may finally try to reach the Bryans – our missionary family in Dublin. Either way, tomorrow we will see "Black Pool" (for so it its name means).

9:30 a.m.

Had a beautiful day yesterday – weather-wise, first of all. So much so that we decided to forego Dublin, for now, to visit Powerscourt.

Powerscourt is a house (modestly so called) and a garden (several really) in the nearby town of Enniskerry. It is owned by the Slazenger family – related to the owners of the sporting goods company – who, if I understand correctly, are descendants of Irish Viscounts.

Twenty years ago, the house was all but completely destroyed by a fire. The restorations were completed only last year, and it marked the first time (at least in a long time) that the house and the grounds were opened to the public.

Words fail to describe the beauty of this palatial home and the expansive, flowered grounds (probably why I shot a whole roll of film there). There seemed to be trees of every variety, some indigenous and older than the home itself, no doubt, and some planted very recently. Jaqueline Kennedy donated one tree in the "back yard" in 1967.

I’m certain there may be larger gardens somewhere in the world, but I’ve never seen or heard of one quite so diverse. The rose garden alone is breathtaking, with its many varieties and shades – so colorful and sweetly pungent.

Jordan had a bit of a fever before we got back, so we dropped him and Nancy at the flat. After dinner at Brian and Debbie’s, we went back to the flat and I took Nathan and Kyle for a walk on the seafront. We played some arcade games and rode a few rides at Dawson’s Family Fun Center. Then we got some sodas and collected rocks, and also skipped some rocks on the Irish Sea.

The weather continues to be gorgeous. I love just sitting here with the kitchen window propped open and enjoying the cool, moist air. Meanwhile in Texas, I read that they have had 20 heat-related deaths, and no relief is in sight.

9:05 a.m.

We didn’t do much Friday. Kind of a "laid back" day after Jordan’s restless night. His fever is gone now, though.

We started late Friday morning and just did some shopping after lunch. Brian took Nathan and Kyle with Alyson and Derek to see "The Little Mermaid."

We had a great steak barbecue at Brian & Debbie’s (Irish beef is fantastic, every bit as tasty and tender as the best Texas Black Angus I’ve eaten). Then the ladies went to see a movie ("Sliding Doors") while I took the boys to the flat and Brian stayed home with his three.

Today we’re planning a trip to Dublin. Wednesday we’ll meet the Bryans and go to church with them in Dundrum (they live in Rathfarnham).

11:20 p.m.

Just got back from Brian’s place and Nancy and the boys are fast asleep. Brian and I watched "Tomorrow Never Dies." Even though this is the trip of a lifetime, we have allowed time for some very "ordinary" things, as well.

Dublin was tiring today. Although I expect it’s largely that the whole trip is just taking its toll on us all, we did a good bit of walking, too.

We parked just a block or so from the seat of the Irish government. We viewed quite a bit of the collection of paintings and sculptures at the National Gallery of Ireland. Then a walk through the Natural Sciences museum (not sure if that was the proper name, but it was along those lines – lots of flora and fauna and such).

Next we toured the main government building where both the parliament and the Teoshaich sit. The Teoshaich (pronounced "tee-shock") is the leader of the nation, whereas the one they call "President of Ireland" is more of a figurehead, much like our own (insert joke here).

Finally, we had lunch at (the name escapes me, but it’s a really good Chicago-style pizzeria). This, I can safely say, was as close to authentic Chicago-style pizza as I’ve had in Ireland so far. Make no mistake – the previous comments on cuisine notwithstanding – this was good pizza. (Oh, I should also mention, we did have some very good Chinese food several days ago).

We had hoped to eat at the Planet Hollywood (I didn’t know Dublin had one), but the wait would have been too long. However, Nathan and Kyle saw and touched the actual R2-D2 unit from the "Star Wars" films – heady stuff for Nathan in particular. Nancy got to see the motorcycle from "Lethal Weapon 3." But, as it was encased in glass, she was unable to touch the seat whereon sat the much-ballyhooed behind of Mel Gibson (what a pity).

On our way out of Dublin, Brian first took us further into the city – down O’Connell Street. We crossed the Liffey on the O’Connell Bridge, and I think I found the camera the Irish Times uses for the "Live Shot" on their website.

Dublin was packed with people. Hopefully when we go back for the bus tour (the one with the open-topped upper deck) it will not be as crowded as the weekend traffic is.

Oh, I almost forgot: On our way to eat, we walked through a park called St. Stephen’s Green – and that it was. I’d say it’s the "Central Park" of Dublin, but, having never seen Central Park, I’m only guessing. Winding asphalt paths lead through huge, thick trees into expansive, lush yards dotted with fountains and flower gardens. It was – as is our popular word now – lovely. Can’t wait to go back to Dublin.

Tomorrow: Church and the dedication of my newest nephew, Sean Daniel Tobin. Then Monday, we’ll be off to Blarney, Cashel, and, possibly, Tipperary, too.

Tuesday – Dublin. Wednesday afternoon and evening with the Bryan family. Thursday we may just climb Bray Head again. Then Friday – home.

It all seems to be going so fast. Only time enough to begin to let Ireland sink in – then we must leave her behind.

10:55 p.m.

Had a wonderful time at church this morning with the "Christians at Number Five." They had a guest speaker, Frank O’ Sullivan, who brought a tremendous message from Romans, chapter six. (I even got a copy of the tape they recorded with the message and some of the congregation’s a capella singing as well).

He related how Christianity is a fundamental change in the way we live, and not simply an "add-on, like you take up squash, or needlepoint." He brought out how that, when we are properly affected by the grace of God over and above our sin, we can, by that grace, overcome sin.

After the teaching, we had the Lord’s Supper, then Sean Daniel was dedicated. Robin – another of the church’s elders – used Luke 2:52 (one of my favorite scriptures) to remind Brian and Debbie of their charge to ensure Sean grows up properly in "wisdom, and in stature, and in favor with God and man."

Not much going on the rest of the day, though, as we wanted to rest up for the trip to Blarney tomorrow. We’ll try to leave around 8:30 a.m.